CHAP. 32.—VARIETIES OF THE ONION.
Garlic and onions
1 are invoked by the Egyptians
2, when
taking an oath, in the number of their deities. The Greeks
have many varieties
3 of the onion, the Sardian onion, the
Samothracian, the Alsidenian, the setanian, the schistan, and
the Ascalonian,
4 so called from Ascalon,
5 a city of Judæa.
They have, all of them, a pungent smell, which
6 draws tears
from the eyes, those of Cyprus more particularly, and those of
Cnidos the least of all. In all of them the body is composed
of a cartilage of an unctuous
7 nature. The variety known as
the setanian is the smallest of them all, with the exception of
the Tusculan
8
onion, but it is sweet to the taste. The schistan
9 and the Ascalonian kinds are used for storing. The
schistan onion is left during the winter with the leaves on; in
the spring it is stripped of them, upon which offsets make
their appearance at the same divisions as the leaves; it is to
this circumstance that this variety owes its name. Taking
the hint from this fact, it is recommended to strip the other
kinds of their leaves, to make them bulb all the better, instead
of running to seed.
The Ascalonian onion is of a peculiar nature, being barren
in some measure in the root; hence it is that the Greeks have
recommended it to be reproduced from seed, and not from roots:
the transplanting, too, they say, should be done later in the
spring, at the time the plant germinates, the result being that
it bulbs with all the greater rapidity, and hastens, as it were,
to make up for lost time; great dispatch, however, is requisite
in taking it up, for when ripe it rots with the greatest rapidity. If propagated from roots, it throws out a long stalk,
runs rapidly to seed, and dies.
There are considerable differences, too, in the colour of the
onion; the whitest of all are those grown at Issus and Sardes.
The onions, too, of Crete are held in high esteem, but there
is some doubt whether they are not the same as the Ascalonian
variety; for when grown from seed they produce a fine bulb,
but when planted they throw out a long stalk and run to seed;
in fact, they differ from the Ascalonian kind only in the sweetness of their flavour.
Among us there are two principal varieties known of the
onion; the scallion, employed for seasonings, is one, known to
the Greeks by the name of "gethyon," and by us as the "pallacana;" it is sown in March, April, and May. The other
kind is the bulbed or headed
10 onion; it is sown just after the
autumnal equinox, or else after the west winds have begun to
prevail. The varieties of this last kind, ranged according to
their relative degrees of pungency, are the African onion, the
Gallic, the Tusculan, the Ascalonian, and the Amiternian: the
roundest in shape are the best. The red onion, too, is more
pungent than the white, the stored than the fresh, the raw
than the cooked, and the dried than the preserved. The onion
of Amiternum is cultivated in cold, humid localities, and is
the only one that is reproduced from heads,
11 like garlic, the
other kinds being grown from seed. This last kind yields no
seed in the ensuing summer, but a bulb only, which dries and
keeps; but in the summer after, the contrary is the case, for
seed is produced, while the bulb very quickly spoils. Hence
it is that every year there are two separate sowings, one of
seed for the reproduction of bulbs, and one of bulbs for the
growth of seed; these onions keep best in chaff. The scallion
has hardly any bulb at all, but a long neck only—hence it is
nothing but leaf, and is often cut down, like the leek; for this
reason, too, like the leek, it is grown from seed, and not from
plants.
In addition to these particulars, it is recommended that the
ground intended for sowing onions should be turned up three
times, care being taken to remove all roots and weeds; ten
pounds of seed is the proper proportion for a jugerum. Savory
too, they say, should be mixed with them, the onions being all
the finer for it; the ground, too, should be stubbed and hoed
four times at least, if not oftener. In Italy, the Ascalonian
onion is sown in the month of February. The seed of the
onion is gathered when it begins to turn black, and before it
becomes dry and shrivelled.